4/3 Hiked up North Fork and established base camp at Upper Boyscout Lake. Trail was free of snow for the most part up until the boulder field after Lower Boyscout Lake. Snow had pretty firm boot tracks ascending the boulder field. Crampons not necessary. Upper Boyscout lake did have snow on the ground. Lake was still frozen over.
4/4 Summit day. Snow was present for most of the way between Upper Boyscout Lake and Iceberg Lake. Once again, boot tracks followed much of the way and were firm enough to not use crampons. Iceberg Lake was frozen and the area around was all snow. Chute up to the notch was hard-packed snow. No post-holing. There were a couple of guided groups ascending the chute with rope, but crampons and ice axe worked just fine. The last 400 ft was covered with snow as well. Tracks have done a good job compacting the snow. Descending was a bit scary without a rope. I would recommend roping up if you are not comfortable on steep snow angles with big exposure.
All in all, route was very manageable. Manage your time, and Summit early. Be safe. Going up is always easier than coming down.
