Hiked to trail camp on 6/7, summit on 6/8. No snow up to trail camp and very, very little around camp. Lots of people were making their way down the switchbacks from summit all afternoon on 6/7. Most people said they had no issue ascending the SB aside from the cable section which had quite a few icy patches, but nothing major other than that. Most people ARE making it to summit.
Our camp neighbours had taken the SBs up without issue (wore just hiking boots up the SB and microspikes on the backside) and glissaded down mid-afternoon.
We got up at 2:30am on Monday 6/8 morning and hit the chute with crampons and ice axes, as we had planned to do based on expected conditions (much thanks to this thread!). The snow in the chute was in perfect condition for crampons. We got up to trail crest from camp in about 1hr20m. We took our crampons off at trail crest and wore just our boots for the entire backside. There were patches of snow but boots were more than adequate. I'd say there was more bare/clear trail than snow-covered. Only one corner was notably icy but as long as you're sure-footed it shouldn't be an issue. Microspikes may be helpful for those less experienced.
We were at the last window before the final SBs to the summit when the sun popped up (about 5:15am). We hustled up the final SBs (which were barely snow-covered and easy to follow as lots of people have been summiting in recent days). Had an amazing, clear view at the top.
On our way down we glissaded the chute (at about 8:30am). It was already soft (good conditions for glissading) and the few people attempting to ascend the chute at this time were having lots of trouble: post-holing to knees and slogging in the soft conditions. Going up the chute before sunrise is definitely the only way to do it. We were glad we got to the chute to glissade when we did, as any later would have been very sloppy. And yes, glissading is dangerous if you don't go about it in a safe way with the right knowledge/experience and equipment.
On our way back down to portal we crossed paths with many people going up to trail camp/summit who said that a pair ahead of us were cautioning people not to try to summit, as they had found the SBs to be "extremely icy and snow-packed". This was absolutely not the case for 95% of people going up the SBs and we were disappointed that they were discouraging others to summit when they themselves looked/acted unprepared (we eventually caught up to them). Be sure-footed, bring the right equipment for YOUR experience-level and route-plan and you'll be fine. The snow is going away in a hurry. Its an amazing hike!
