went up from portal at 12:30am for a 1 day summit on 6/10. went up the chute. need crampons and ice axe. need to climb the chute early, before 8am, when snow is hard. later in the day, snow does not hold. I reached the bottom of last rock before crest at 10am but snow was too soft and I can not make it on the rock and slide down. my mistake for not bring a rope. good luck you guys and go early. the climb is long and hard, takes a while. a few guys in our group did it. practice self arresting before you go. hold tight to your axe.
