We made the climb as a single day-climb on Friday June 8, group of 10 but somewhat varying abilities and conditioning. Started at the trailhead at 3:15 and were at the chute around 8. Even at that hour, the snow was a little soft but not terrible to climb. We had a mixture of crampons and microspikes, and a few of the spikers felt a little more unsteady but all made it up with minimal problems.
Got back to the chute in mid-afternoon, and the snow was REALLY soft. But a delightful glissade, for those willing to trust their skills. I did the whole thing in two stretches, trying to urge my companions to relax and trust their stills to control speed! This technique works perfectly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXfROxEqeEw
