We summited this Monday (June 4th) after spending the night at Trail Camp. We planned to camp at Consultation Lake, but that lake is still frozen over. After reaching camp, we spent some time practicing self-arrest on the nearby snowfields.
We left camp at 3:45am and reached the top of the chute by 9:15. Snow conditions were good and it was easy going with ice axe and crampons. There were a number of people going up with just hiking poles and no traction; definitely would not recommend.
The switchbacks are still covered in lots of ice; one group we talked to tried to take the switchbacks, but turned back, came down, and went up the chute instead due to the conditions.
The section from trail crest to the summit has a number of short sketchy icy sections. It's quite a hassle to put crampons on for each one, so we left them in our packs and made do with careful ice-axe placements. Microspikes+axe here would be ideal.
After summiting we reached trail crest at about 11:30 on the way down. Conditions at this time were perfect for glissading, so we slid down the length of the chute and got back to camp pretty quickly.
