Thanks Burchey,
I have a lot of experience in the mountains and on extended hikes, but what you guys did seems to go to another level with tethers and glacier climbing et al. Based on that would you still feel (in general) that what you guys did could be accomplished by thorough research and training? I love making my own trips and appreciate your experience. In other words how would you stack up your climb to a Mt Whitney climb, which by comparison I feel has less technical demand.
Thanks again,
KC
Hey KC,
A few weeks ago I went up the MR on Whitney alone. It was a beautiful trip, and more technical than the main trail for sure, but Mt. Rainier is on a whole different level. I'm not an expert on Rainier or mountaineering for that matter, but I'm learning as I go and the reading I've done has been very beneficial. In addition, my experience using ropes and anchors while rock climbing has helped. The route we did was probably middle-of-the-road when it comes to Rainier, the DC route seems to be the path of choice for first-timers on Rainier, and there are other options that are more difficult than the path we chose.
Your big concerns are the weather, the amount of elevation gain, and the objective hazards like ice and rockfall, avalanche, and crevasse danger. There were several points along the way where I felt we were in severe danger, but that's the risk you take I guess. Imagine doing that same stuff at 20,000+ feet! I think I'm happy below 15,000.
Rainier is more demanding than Whitney in every way, I would say. I wouldn't solo Rainier, I wouldn't go up Rainier with Mickey Mouse gear ( a couple of us had moderate to severe failure of supposedly breathable/waterproof clothing ), and I would definitely do some cardio training before you go. This is all in addition to having knowledge of rope management, crevasse rescue (self and otherwise), and being quite capable and comfortable with your axes and crampons. Some of this can be read, some of it you get from just getting out in the local mountains and practicing.
Last but not least, I'd advise having people with you that you can count on, either a good guide or guys you have been out with already. I got very lucky - I randomly found a few guys with a similar experience level, attitude, and sense of responsibility. You could fly up there and end up with a bunch of bozos. Are you familiar with the concept of not joining any club that would have you as a member? If some team allows you in at the last minute without any knowledge of how you really are/climb, there's a good chance they aren't someone you'd want to go with - your life depends on these guys sometimes. I took a gamble, and I got pretty lucky. I think, had they turned out to be idiots, I would have just went up the DC route to Muir and found a level-headed group to rope up with instead. Again, another gamble as you may not find someone, but better than nothing had these guys not worked out that I met from Summitpost.
