Mt Whitney Zone Forums General Discussion Planning a trip in early June, considering the MR

My fiance and I are planning a road trip out West in late May and early June to visit some friends and family and do some mountaineering. With our schedule, we'd like to do Whitney in a day. We're both fairly experienced hikers, and are preceding Mt. Whitney with a guided climb of Rainier (via DC/IG), Mt. Hood (via South Side), and Mt. Shasta (via Avalanche Gulch).

We're going to be at Mt. Whitney the first week of June. I've seen information about the road construction, so I know we'll have to account for that in our plans.

We think we'd like to do the Mountaineer's Route for the added technical challenge. We have all our own equipment, to include ice axes, crampons, and helmets.

I've seen a lot of accounts and pictures on this forum and other sites. Do you think we're being overly ambitious by planning to do MR in a day at this time of year?

We have harnesses and rope, are those necessary or helpful given that it's just the two of us? I've seen the photos and descriptions of the traverse and "walk-up" route above the notch. I know it's impossible to predict snow conditions 3 months in advance, but historically, how will the ice and snow compare to the chute vs. the traverse at that time of the year?

My main concern, as it usually is, is the descent and timing. From the times, distances, and factoring in our normal speed and conditioning, I think it might take us 6-7 hours up and perhaps 4-5 down. Is it wise to do an alpine start, and navigate the Ebersbacher ledges pre-dawn? The pictures from Bob R make it look safe enough if you know the route, but those are in full daylight. From all the other accounts from the past couple years, it sounds like the trail is fairly well marked, and I will have a map/compass/GPS.

As I'm thinking out loud about all this it seems like it might greatly increase our chances of making a summit bid safely to put in for the overnight lottery and turn it into a two day trip, camping at Iceberg Lake the first night, then resting up before going for the summit and coming down?

I appreciate any and all feedback.

-Nic

Hey Nic,

I'm planning a trip in 2 weeks to the MR! I'm giving it 3 nights (it's winter, and shit happens). I've never been to the mountain, so all my advice is unsubstantiated.

my 1st thought for you was acclimatization, but if you're hitting Rainier, Hood & Shasta immediately beforehand, I think maybe you'll be acclimatized.

Macnamara writes in his guidebook that , "a few motivated individuals" will do it in a long day. I'm sure you are motivated, but I think he is saying that it sucks to do it that way, like it's tiring & exhausting. 2-days would probably be more enjoyable (plus you get to wake up to a romantic alpenglow, high in the mountains with your main squeeze)

If you bring gear, know how to use it!

Nic, if you and your GF can do Shasta, then you will be ok on the MR. If you can do Shasta in two days, I think you will be fine on the MR in one.

June will be a good time to do it, as you have more daylight. Starting up the Main Trail in the dawn twilight should be as early as you need. The Ebersbacher Ledges are best done with daylight. Make SURE you study the route. Have you seen the MR Info on this site?

I doubt road construction will be up on the Portal section that early (but I could be wrong). Transportation will be a hassle if you can't drive up and park.

Don't take rope and harnesses. Guides do but others don't. You will want to decide on the "Easy Walk-Off" vs the "Final 400" once you get to the notch. In early June the F400 will have some icy sections, or it may be steep packed snow that work well with crampons. The first part of the EWO would be the worst for ice.

The "trail" is just a use trail, and is not so well marked. You really do need to study the route so you know where to make the sharp turns. Knowing where to go will save you lots of time and frustration.

As for permits: The Lottery is for Whitney Zone Day-Use, and overnight on the Main Trail. If you day hike the MR, you need the WZ Day-Use. (But there are so many no-shows in early June that walk-ins will be available the day before) To overnight on the MR (I would recommend Upper Boy Scout Lk), you need the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek JM34 permit: quota 10 per day, 6 reservable through that link, 4 available at 11 AM the day before to walk-ins.

TO add a bit to Steve's sage advice. When considering the Easy Walk-Off, look specifically into how it is in winter conditions. I don't have links handy, but stories include hazards that are very different when ice and snow are on the section. Also, I believe the guide's practice is to short-rope on the MR on snow.You may want to look into that. Your guided trips will be an an opportunity to learn that as well. That may be belt and suspenders, but at the very least you will want your axe and self arrest skills down pat.

I've got a couple of videos of hiking the Ebersbacher Ledges. If you PM me your email address I'll send you the links and some tips on finding your way up the MR.

As Steve mentions, with the long days of June, you can easily complete the hike starting in dawn twilight (30 to 60 minutes prior to sunrise). However, I would recommend that you "scout" the route the day before. I suggest climbing up to lower boy scout lake and back as sort of a "warm up" to your hike. Total time is less than 4 hours, and you will know in advance the early part of the hike. As Steve mentions, it can be easy to lose the trail, so this will serve as good orientation (and further adjustment to the altitude).

Hopefully, the road construction will not get in the way of a "practice" day, as well as your hike.

As for your concern down climbing the final 400 or the easy walk off, you always have the option to return via the main trail. In fact, it will give you another perspective on the hike.

John

Thanks all for the advice.