Mt Whitney Zone Forums General Discussion Mountaineers Route

Heading up there this weekend. Any intel on current conditions? Specifically curious about the final 400... feels like we're in-between seasons (i.e. how much snow will really be left?).
Thank you in advance

Debating on the mountaineers route myself for June 12-13th. Please post a trip report on the conditions if you end up doing it.

Much appreciated and good luck

definitely will. feeling like I wish I went a few weeks ago or was waiting a few more weeks to go but maybe it'll be great, fingers cross

Hi Martin,
I did the mountaineers route last Sunday and Monday. The final 400 had patches of snow which we avoided by going up the first chute on the left side the entire way up. On the gully approach from iceberg lake we went up the on the right side which is a complete snow field. We left around 8:30 and both of us used crampons and had an ice ax. Some people avoided most of the snow by going up on the traditional left side but still had to cross a snow field at the junction of the two sides as the gully narrows. The snow field at that time of the day was icy and steep. Above the final approach to the notch was dry. Hope that helps.

Right on Terence, appreciate it

Terrance. Did you see any big need for you guys to be roped together. All just regular class three scrambling.

Any advice on where people camp near a consistent water source and out of the elements?

RE: final 400 climb. I did not rope in. On a trip years ago I went with 3 others and we roped in. They felt more comfortable doing it that way. I suggest you look at pics and some videos from this forum to see what the final 400 looks like. That would help you determine how you would approach the climb. FYI depending on the chute and route, some of it is class 4 and with some exposure.
As far as camping. Upper Boy Scout lake is nice spot with easy access to water. Iceberg Lake is also good but is more exposed to the elements, a bit higher up and has easy water access.

WB: Here are some links for the MR:

Mountaineers Route info links within...

Anyone know the elevation of the Ebersbacher Ledges?

Using Gmap4, zooming in on the foxtail pine at the start, then switching to topo, the contour is 2940 m, so 9650 ft.

Gmap4 link.

Any current info on the snow(if any) above iceberg lake? Heading up the last Sunday in June. Thanks

There should be a dry path all the way to the summit by then. Snow remains longer in the center of the chute below the notch, but most people just use the rocky section left of the chute for some distance.

Thanks for the info. I'm looking forward to a great trip.

Anyone have any snow updates...particularly at Iceberg lake and in the chute?

Was there enough clear ground to camp at Iceberg?

Can anyone add to my calculations?

Whitney Portal (8,640') to Ebersbacher Ledges (9,500') = 1 1/3 mi
900' elevation gain

E-Ledges to Lower Boyscout Lake (10,335') = 2/3 mile/2 mi
800'/1700' elevation gain

LBSL to Upper Boyscout Lake (11,320') = 1 mile/3 mi
1,000'/2700'

UBSL to Iceberg Lake (12,631') = 1 mile/4 mi
1,300'/4,000'

I'll be cancelling 3 overnight permits for the Mountaineers Route soon. Entry date = 8-5-14. If someone wants these permits let me know when to cancel so you can be ready to book them.

Can someone offer me more info on the route from Clyde Meadows up to Iceberg lake? I'd like to see a picture with a route drawn on the picture.

The key is, as you approach Upper Boy Scout Lake, you go left (south) around a ridge so that as you approach Iceberg Lake you have Pinnacle Ridge on your left and this ridge on your right. But you will find a use trail the whole way. When you get close to Iceberg Lake, you can choose to stay on sand and approach it from the south, or climb the lake's headwall (a little class 3) and approach from the southeast.

You'll find a picture if you Google "Clyde Meadow Mountaineer's Route."

The use trail is easily followed in that section. Make sure to follow the rock cairns all the way and you will have trouble getting lost.

Just came across this photo, it shows that section fairly well. Upper Boy Scout lower right, Iceberg right of center.

http://www.supertopo.com/inc/photo_zoom.php?dpid=Oj81OzglISMrIA,,