When my middle son was 12 he reached the summit via the main trail. He knew that I had done the mountaineers route before and asked me, "when can I take that route?" Maybe when you are 15 I said. Well, he started reminding me in February that he'll turn 15 in March, "did you get the permits dad?" Yes I did! We leave the morning after your last day of school.
Another awesome trip. Here's the summary:
Drove up from So Cal, ate at Pizza Factory in Lone Pine, then proceeded to set up camp at Whitney Portal. Did a day hike to Lower Boy Scout Lake to show my son the E-Ledges without a full pack on. Back down for another great burger and fries at the store. Next morning we started on the trail mid morning. On the approach to the start of the E-ledges we saw 2 hikers on the north side who were stopped part way and looked confused. (There was a 3rd hiker in their group but he was blazing ahead and not in sight or earshot. They were yelling for him to stop for several minutes. I digress.) We were on the south side of the creek. I asked if they needed help, which they indicated they had not done this route before. I recommended the double back and cross the creek to the south side and hike up and then cross the creek back to the north side at the waterfall and below the foxtail pine tree. They eventually did that after their 3rd hiker came back down.
We hiked up to LBS Lake and took a short snack break and enjoyed the beautiful surroundings. Met a couple of friendly climbers who were going to do the East Buttress the next day. The hike to Upper Boy Scout Lake was enjoyable. Perfect weather. Spent the night at UBS Lake. Only one other camper there, which we never saw. We found out the following day from other climbers that the climbers in that tent had summitted via the East face but didn't feel comfortable going down the gully without crampons and an ice ax. So they went down the main trial to the Portal and hiked back up to UBSL to get their tent.
Summit day we left UBSL around 6:30/7 and got to Iceberg Lake around 8:30. We talked with the group from the Ledges and they were set to climb the East Buttress(2 of them). They hadn't done it before. We wished them luck and we put on our crampons and headed up the main gully on the right side. The snow was icy, the sun was bright and the angle was getting steeper every step. We took our time going up enjoying every minute. (I wouldn't have even considered going up without crampons and an ice ax.) We reached the notch and took in some more water and a snack. Headed up the first chute of the final 400. We had planned on going up the left side and then traversing over to the right. I had my son ahead of me so I could spot him when needed. He had a good line on the left side so we stayed on the left the entire way to the plateau. He like me is not afraid of heights, but both have a healthy "respect" of heights. He did great going up and I couldn't have had a better hiking buddy.
Summit was cold and windy, and for a few minutes we were the only 2 on the summit. That was cool, but it is also nice to visit with fellow hikers who are sharing the summit experience at the same time. Only stayed for an hour and then headed back down while the snow in the gully was probably softer.
Halfway down the final 400 chute, we ran into the 3 climbers who decided not to do the East Buttress and chose the classic route instead. Great decision because they all were able to reach the summit together. No one left behind.
Reached the notch, then proceeded down and reached the main snow field. The snow wasn't as soft as expected, so post holing was not a problem. About half way down we glissaded and needed the ice ax to control speed and self arrest if necessary. It was a bumpy ride as the snow was very hard in many spots. (Not as smooth as a glissade down Baldy Bowl.)
Walked back down to our camp at UBSL and made a welcome dinner and ate inside the tent, as the winds were howling. Slept great and had an early start to go back down to the portal. Pancake breakfast awaits!!!!! Saw Dave at the Portal Store around 9 am.........2 breakfasts please. Pause, "the kitchen is closed"... Double Bummer. I guess Tuesday morning at the beginning of the summer season is not too busy. PLAN B...........The Alabama Cafe in Lone Pine. 40 minutes later we were chowing down on thick pieces of bacon. Pretty good, could be Plan A next trip.
Headed home to the welcome arms of my wife and other 2 boys(both have summitted before but couldn't make this trip this year) Great stories to tell.
It was my son's 3rd time to the summit and the 1st by this route. Great trip and looking forward to planning our next one.
