Mt Whitney Zone Forums General Discussion EXPOSURE & OTHER DIFFICULTY COMPARED

I plan to do the MR this summer for the first time. If I go with a bunch of other MR noobs, the plan will be to return via the trail.

I thought hiking where using your hands is necessary was class 3, and 4th class is where ropes and technical gear is pretty much necessary for most climbers.

...but I may be wrong.

Hiking:

Class 1 - Easy hiking - usually on a good trail.

Class 2 - More difficult hiking that may be off-trail. You may also have to put your hands down occasionally to keep your balance. May include easy snow climbs or hiking on talus/scree.

Climbing:

Class 3 - Scrambling or un-roped climbing. You must use your hands most of the time to hold the terrain or find your route. This may be caused by a combination of steepness and extreme terrain (large rocks or steep snow). Some Class 3 routes are better done with rope.

Class 4 - Climbing. Rope is often used on Class 4 routes because falls can be fatal. The terrain is often steep and dangerous. Some routes can be done without rope because the terrain is stable.

Class 5 - Technical climbing. The climbing involves the use of rope and belaying. Rock climbing is Class 5. Note: In the 1950s, the Class 5 portion of this ranking system was expanded to include a decimal at the end of the ranking to further define the difficulties of rock climbing. This is called the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS). The decimal notations range from 5.1 (easiest) to 5.14 (most difficult). Recently, the rankings of 5.10 through 5.14 were expanded to include an "a", "b", "c" or "d" after the decimal (Example: 5.12a) to provide further details of the ranking. None of the routes described on 14ers.com are Class 5, so I will not go into detail of the expanded decimal system.

Keep in mind that Class 1 through Class 4 rankings are not very descriptive and do not have any further breakdowns like Class 5. Class 2 is very general and includes a wide range of hiking. At time, Class 2 routes may include dangerous terrain (exposure, loose rock, steep scree, etc.). Just because a route is ranked Class 2, does not mean it is safe or easy. The key to Class 3 is that you are almost always using your hands to move up through the steep terrain (snow or rock). In some cases, I may describe a route as "Difficult Class 2" or "Easy Class 3" to provide more detail.

Class 1: Walking with a low chance of injury.

Class 2: Simple scrambling, with the possibility of occasional use of the hands. Little potential danger is encountered.

Class 3: Scrambling with increased exposure. A rope can be carried but is usually not required. Falls are not always fatal.

Class 4: Simple climbing, with exposure. A rope is often used. Natural protection can be easily found. Falls may well be fatal.

Class 5: Technical free climbing involving rope, belaying, and other protection hardware for safety. Un-roped falls can result in severe injury or death.

Hey, that's Ellen.

So when guys like Ueli Steck, Alex Honnold et al. climb the faces of El Capitan and Half Dome without rope, does that make them Class 4 ?

I was thinking of trying the Angels Landing hike this July, thinking it would be less scary than Half Dome. Now I am a little worried I might freak. Can anyone reassure me that its not that bad, considering I survived Half Dome with only a few bad dreams? Or should I look for another hike in Zion with less fear factor ?

Would a failure to reach the top of Angels Landing mean don't bother with the Whitney MR ?

I was thinking of trying the Angels Landing hike this July, thinking it would be less scary than Half Dome. Now I am a little worried I might freak. Can anyone reassure me that its not that bad, considering I survived Half Dome with only a few bad dreams? Or should I look for another hike in Zion with less fear factor ?

Would a failure to reach the top of Angels Landing mean don't bother with the Whitney MR ?

I only say it's harder than HD because the terrain has a lot of loose dirt, aka, more chances for you to slip versus the rough granite at HD or Whitney.

I would not consider the HD route rough granite. All that polished granite is slick from people usage. I have seen people turn around part way up the cables on HD not from fear, but from difficulty with their feet slipping. Their too-smooth, grip-less tennis shoes (or flip flops!) were not good enough. Lug soles are better.

All interesting posts thus far . . . I'm hoping to see more comment specifically on the exposure comparison between the Mountaineer's Route (which might be sub-divided between the final 400 and Ebersbacher Ledges), Angel's Landing, and Half Dome. AND the difficulty comparison between those three as well as Camelback Mountain (I wouldn't say exposure is an issue with Camelback).

Laura, you've apparently experienced those first three. I think you are looking at the MR with the most pucker factor, but it wasn't clear. How would you rate the three in comparison with each other? Or -- maybe they're all essentially equal in your mind?

And -- others -- same thing for you if you've been on all three.

Now, clarifying "difficulty" -- throwing out exposure AND length of hike/climb -- I'm still curious as to how all 4 places compare (considering only the final 400 on the Mountaineer's Route). I've done Angels Landing and Camelback, and based on those visits and what I've read and seen about the other two, I'm postulating that they are all essentially equal in difficulty. Laura -- and others -- what say you about that? (To me, they all appear to be about the same in using both your hands and feet to the max, giving you a strenuous time, and keeping your mind busy finding your route.)

(This is what you call long term sneaky research in anticipation of a possible Mountaineer's Route visit in 3 years at age 70!)