To all heading up in the next couple days, my advice is to get an early start around 4am for the best hiking conditions. We left early Saturday morning intending to summit that day, but due to some delays did not arrive at Trail Camp until 2pm. By that time it was post hole city and the few who did continue to the Chute wasted energy they should have saved for the following day. Sunday we departed around 4:30am and had terrific icy conditions on the Chute which were perfect for crampons and ice axes. This helped with a steady footing and less expense of energy, though it was still a tough ascent. As we glissaded down around 11am the conditions were slushy and even more difficult. It was as tough to climb as it was exhilarating conquer. The hike out went well in spite of occasional post holing and sliding around, at least it was down hill. Do your best to get good trail directions and stay right en route to Trail Camp, there are a lot of misguided trekkers that lose the trail due to temporary snow cover and veer left over some huge and exhausting hills (I know this bc I am one of them, so don't follow my foot prints ha ha).
It was warmer than I thought, I wore a capilene t-shirt and stretchy trail pants during the day and a light weight capilene top under my jacket and goretex pants up top. I tried to avoid sweating by adjusting layers. Get gaiters if you don't have them. I was wrong to anticipate cooler conditions and could have saved weight in the pack, of course its good to be prepared for an unexpected change in weather, I just had more gear than necessary.
Good luck and have fun.
KC
Last edited by krazy_chicken; 06/20/11 05:02 PM.