Sure. We parked on WP road below the switchbacks on the night of 4.22 after spending the day in Bishop. We (me and one friend) hiked into WP campground that night up the road and stopped at the first site when we hit snow on the road, which happened to be the very first set of spots. We set up camp there and drank a couple beers. 5am 4.23 we set off for Trail Camp. Trailhead until about northfork crossing is just and avi debris field. This was initially to be a test trip for new gear as we have a permit for 5.22.23, but we agreed that if the weather was good we would keep pushing up the mountain. We in fact had perfectly clear skies the duration of the trip, which was remarkable. This was our first real mountaineering excursion, first with rope, etc. Early morning conditions were sublime, snow good and frozen. But around 10am, postholing became an issue, especially in the rocky areas of the "trail". Keep in mind there was no trail, any anyone going from outpost on up will probably be following our tracks.
Took us a full 12hrs to make Trail Camp. Exhausting slogs, particularly before and after outpost camp. Essentially a "chute 2.0" immediately after outpost camp. A ginormous snow bowl in which we chose to walk a gradual ascending traverse. Gorgeous conditions at trail camp that first night, but obviously no liquid water anywhere. Melting snow made for slow mornings. Was so hot during the climbs I ate a lot of snow to just keep cool and moisture in my mouth. Tastiest I've ever had! Left for summit 530am 4.24 (late start). Chute conditions were good, nice ice crust, but just a long grind. Took shortcut at very top and climbed over a small 4ft serac and ate a snack in a window pocket. West side of mountain on main trail was very sketchy in about 8 spots. There was lots of bare dirt in the initial stretches, before you get onto the main western slope behind the needles. These 8 spots were where snow steeply covered the trail and sloped straight down a couple hundred feet to boulders below. FYI, we stayed roped up the duration of the western side. These 8 places took me straight to Puckerville, but methodical tempo and constant verbal communication got us through. Those two things are VERY IMPORTANT.
Once you exit onto the main western slopes, its all snow and boulder. The last 500 vert ft to the summit is a snow and ice dome where roping was beneficial. Any ice could lead to a long and gnarly slide. Got to summit about noon and stayed 30min while we made water. Made good time descending until we got back to pucker city sections. Changing snow conditions meant reevaluation of every section, even through we were through there just hours before. Partner switched to lead and was better for our pace and communication. Good learning experience (I had more confidence on initial crossing, he kept us methodical going back in a rush). My partner was getting really tired from post holing and we didn't get to the chute until 330pm. Half was in the shade already. The steepest part was in the sun, but we made the erroneous choice of taking the shaded part thinking it was still soft enough for us to break through the surface crust. Dead wrong. Things got out of hand and I had to self arrest (not roped up at this point). During the slide, could not hammer in axe due to ice. If it did go in, immediately ripped out of my hands due to thick ice. Used my leash to pull axe back into grip and rolled on my back. I have a Kelty external frame, and leaned back as hard as possible to use external frame termination points at the bottom as two additional spikes to aid in arrest. This, coupled with my axe in the glissade position allowed me to stop. My estimate was a 200ft slide. Fully convinced only my external frame pack allowed me to self arrest as I wasnt carrying sleeping pads for the summit push.
Conditions around the cables were abominable. Zero run out. Adeneline played a huge role in this series of events, and not sure others of less physical stature or strength (6ft, 185 lean) or gear would have been successful. A perspective altering experience, listed here as a cautionary tale to other overly adventurous hikers. Please see the recent picture postings in Trip Reports - there is trecherous snow and ice everywhere on this route. If reading this gives you pause, you will for sure have issues on the mountain if you are not in the right head space. Made it back to TC at 6pm, exhausted. Couldnt eat. Winds howled all night, but awoke to clear skies. Slept in to allow for more plunge stepping conditions around chute 2.0 and Whitney zone areas. Left TC about 730am. Used a whole large gas bottle making water for 3 days. Ran into very sketchy downhill conditions around chute 2.0 near the waterfall area of outpost. Stayed roped up throughout this area luckily, my friend lost a crampon on an icy downhill portion of the bowl and I had him on a very taught rope, moving inches at a time. Ultimately descended just south of the waterfall near where the MWMT actually is.
Terrible post holing all the way to WP store, atrocious post holing up to the crotch. Made it to portal store at 1130 and ran into Doug (?) walking up the road, talked for 20 min about conditions. Got back to truck at 1230 and devoured a beer and the best meal I've ever had at The Grill in LP. Needless to say, we are NOT going again on 5.22. We think the conditions will be even worse (post holing, constant on and off of crampons, runoff becoming ice, delays from other hikers, lack of parking, etc.). This was my first time making the summit after two previous failed attempts, and I used every ounce of luck I had in my bag that week, I will not push my luck again like that in a year with conditions like these.
All this being said, the MWMT is NOT the easier or safer route up the mountain at this time of year. Do not attempt without a harness, rope, axe, helmet, crampons, gore tex, etc. Microspikes are NOT AN OPTION. Poles instead of an axe is NOT AN OPTION (need both IMO). Please reach out with any other questions, I'd be happy to answer them.
