Hoot:
I spent my 1988-1992 vacations climbing the Colorado 14ers. I thought Roach overrated 18 of them and was correct on the others. The difference in ratings is real, but it’s not huge.
The guides always rope up for the Final 400 and I think they rope up for most of the chute. Many private parties leave the ropes at home, but others bring them for the Final 400. The Final 400 is typical Sierra Class 3 rock, with the added challenge that there will be some snow. Ordinary mortals solo it all the time, but a fall can get you on the evening news. I’m trying to be helpful here; I don’t want to scare you away or suck you in.
Some refer to the route Steve described as the “Rockwell Shortcut.” The last time I went that way, a ranger had gone to considerable effort to make impassable. There was lots of brush cut and dumped where the route once went. Rangers have also done a pretty good job of “establishing” the trail that crosses the creek twice. I prefer the Rockwell Shortcut, but I don’t know how hard the ranger(s) have worked at keeping it impassable.