Mt Whitney Zone Forums General Discussion Ice Axes and Crampons: how to use safely

In the following notes I am careful to use the word "might" not "will" and "should" not "could"; remember that.

Without ice axe training, you might be better off not bringing one. Ascending with crampons and poles might be safe enough for you. However, if the snow is soft you can climb safely without the crampons by kicking steps in the snow. On the descent if the snow is soft, and if not using an ice axe, it is safer to take-off the crampons; just make certain of every step down.

Glissading with crampons is a big no-no. If the crampon spikes should happen to dig in you could end up with an ankle or leg injury. One of my very experienced climbing partners would never glissade under any circumstance; he had seen too many glissading accidents (as have I). If the snow is soft coming down the chute you can descend safely by taking your time and walking down one careful step at a time, being careful not to plunge step into holes between rocks under the snow. It will take longer to descend, but is actually safer.

One technique descending with hiking poles is to carry one with both hands around the shaft near the little spike. Then if you slip, quickly jag the spike into the snow. There might be enough friction to slow you down until you are able to stop. Again, this takes practice in safe conditions.

Finally, if the snow in the chute is hard and un-yielding, ice axe and crampons will be necessary. In hard snow/ice conditions, without them, don't go!

Having said all of that, you need to get ice axe and crampon training to prepare you for any future adventures on steep snow. Climbing is a lot of fun, but it can also be dangerous. Be safe.