Originally Posted By: saltydog
Himalayan survival strategy, not Alpine acclimation technique.


well yes and no.

Even the fast/light/Alpine style people must acclimatize first. Alpine style may help you avoid obvious risks by reducing time spent under hanging seracs or threatening weather, but the increased workload may aggravate the risk for complications of AMS like HAPE and HACE, plus, you just can't go as fast as your potential unless acclimatized.

This is certainly true at extreme altitudes where no one can go Alpine-style on day one, not even Messner.

It also applies to moderate altitudes (like Whitney) where the stakes are not as high, but the effects of even mild AMS are still significant for many folks. Yes, some people can drive up from LA, do Whitney in a day. Half cannot.

Climb high-sleep low is appropriate for acclimatization for both moderate and extreme altitudes.

edit: Alpinism or alpine climbing pretty much means rock or ice technical climbing, originally on the Alps or other moderate altitudes (Eiger is 13,000 or so). Alpine style means lightweight/little gear or support but can be done at any altitude all the way up to 29,000. Alpine start means before dawn.

Last edited by Harvey Lankford; 04/12/11 04:36 PM.