Mt Whitney Zone Forums General Discussion Mountaineer's Route: Tackling the final 400' in January

Hi all. Here's a few questions from a first-timer attempting Mt. Whitney.

1. From what I've been reading, the final 400' can be tricky in the winter time. Looks like there are two different paths: the more direct and possibly technical, and the walk around. Is this correct?

2. For those of you who have tackled the final 400' in the winter, did you need/bring rope? I know this question is subjective to the current conditions and might be impossible to answer now, but I'm thinking more in general terms.

3. If we went up the MR but down the main trail, would that negate the need for rope (if it was otherwise recommended to bring)?

4. Sounds like the MR is easy to follow even though it's not very marked? I have a GPS but seems like most people do not bring one. Any suggestions?

Here's our tentative plan. Please fill free to give advice/shoot holes in our schedule. My friend and I are planning on flying in to Vegas on 27 Dec, getting a rental car and driving 4ish hours to the Whitney Portal (or as close as we can get to it with the road conditions). We are going to stay a night or 2 to acclimate. For the first day, we are going to try to make it to Iceberg Lake, but will settle for HBSL or LBSL if the trail is slow-moving. Second day, we are going to try to make it up the summit and then at least back down to where ever we set up camp, if not all the way back to the portal.

Here's some background on my friend and I. We are both novice mountaineers for sure. We've primarily done hiking in the Smoky Mountains, as well as a summit of Mt. Rainier. We are both comfortable with crampons, ice axe, self arrest, and fixed lines. We aren't so comfortable with single roping it up a level 5 route.

Thanks for taking the time to read this!

Rob

Oh boy!

A winter ascent of the MR is a challenge: cold (tomorrow night at 11,000, it will be about 18F...), wind, avalanche hazard, etc., the typical Sierra Nevada winter conditions. The Great Smokey Mountains it ain't. The last 400' from the notch to the summit can be VERY tricky, depending on snow conditions. Take a look at this Youtube clip of a Sierra Mountain Center guided climb during the month of March.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=djokZ4HyUHk&feature=related

Notice the expedition capable equipment being used by SMI, and the caution used to avoid an avalanche zone. Yes, a rope and pro was used; especially on the descent. It is possible to descend via the trail (if you can find it...), depending on the snow conditions. We (SAR) did a body recovery in the switch-back area, of a guy that lost control while descending.

I strongly advise you (others might disagree) to avail yourselves of the services of one of the local mountain guide companies; you'll be in good hands and will have a lot of fun.

There are many youtube videos of winter MR climbs; check them out. Hopefully, others on this forum will offer their advice.

1) The walk around is more difficult in my opinion regardless of the season. It just looks easier. See what the easy walk around can do:
http://www.whitneyzone.com/wz/ubbthreads.php/topics/22876/Re_April_6_8_know_how_to_self_#Post22876
2) I didn't bring rope, but I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed.
3) Going down the main "trail" just might be harder. Once you're on the summit, there might or might not be a trail. In January, there might not be anyone who goes up the main trail. If someone decides to break trail, their tracks may easily be covered by a storm. To get back down that way, you'll need to traverse 2.5 - 3 miles to get to Trail Crest. If it's not beaten in, which it probably won't be, you'll be in for a brutal trip. You'll still have to get down a steep slope from Trail Crest. While it not as steep as the MR, it's not a skip down either, and you'll be much more tired from traversing and probably post holing all the way.
4) Easy to follow? I can't answer that, it depends on you. I'd say it's easier than the main trail due to the needles almost always being in your face. If you have a GPX track, being it as a backup.
5) Bring your A game. This old TR and pictures should give you an idea of what you're up against:
http://s43.photobucket.com/albums/e378/l...mview=slideshow
http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/forum/...e=0&fpart=1
You've picked one of the toughest months to do a trip. Good luck!!! You'll need it.

Is there an end to the story about getting the car out?

Why yes, there is:
http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/forum/...age=1#Post82101

Which is something the OP should think about as well. These guys and gal seemed to have a lot of time on their hands. If the OP has job commitments, this situation could get sticky with the employer and/or the rental car company.

Hi Rob,

Glad you posted your questions here. I hope you aren't too alarmed by the responses. But Mt Whitney IS a beast in winter. I think with your experience level, going with a guide service would be a good idea, and much better ensure you have a safe trip. Bob West mentioned several, and Kurt Wedberg's SMI is world class.

Here is a post written originally in 2005 by Whitney veteran, SAR member and Volunteer Ranger Bob R:
    So, you want to climb the Mountaineer's Route in winter?

Last year was a drought year, so people were hiking the main trail all year long. But the year before, waist-deep drifts made the main trail impassable. It all depends on what the weather brings. Most winter ascents of Mt Whitney are late winter or early spring, once the snow consolidates so sinking in is not such a problem, and there are fewer storms.

And one more thread to read: SAR on the MR: 2/25/12

1) The final 400 feet is a challenge but do able. When I did it the snow was deep and soft and we took the most direct route. The hardest part was right at the begining was rocks covered with ice, I used my axe as an ice tool, and front pointed up this section.

2) We didn't bring rope, but when the other team that summited with us pulled out their rope, we asked if we could rap down with them. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ASthZZJoBIA

3) I personally wouldn't mess with trying to go down the main route, but self arrest skills are necessary. (as seen later in the video above) My first attempt at Whitney in April was postponed because of a fall from someone descending at night and unable to arrest. Sadly, I helped with the recovery.

4)Bring a map, and know how to use it. If the weather has been good you'll have to problem following the route. If you're the first ones after a storm, you'll be rebuilding the route. If you're familiar with the area then the major landmarks are easy to spot.

My normal schedule for all my sierra climbs no matter the season is leave work in Reno on Friday and head straight to the trailhead (in this case the portal). My preference is to make it to iceberg on Saturday, then Sunday the plan is to summit take a quick nap in camp, then hike out, pizza in Lone Pine and a drive back to Reno with naps along the way to be back at work on Monday morning.

My suggestion is that you should at least make it to Upper Boy Scout that first day. Oh and have fun!

Edit:
Oh.. BTW, this is a trip that I love doing every year before permit season! It's probably about the same difficulty, physically, as Rainier (depending on conditions) except you don't have to worry about crevasses or bergschrunds. The snow makes the area beautiful and interesting. Temperature swings are extreme especially if the Sierra is expereincing it's normal June-uary. Hot clear days with the sun beating down followed by very cold clear nights.

Actually, Steve, somebody did climb the main trail in January 2011. Remember this TR?

raflymtsu: That TR may make it seem easier than it is. I'm no world-class climber, but I've been doing this for 25 years. I also had perfect weather, not too much snow, and I had already climbed Whitney many times.

The MR is a shorter route, but the final 400' can be pretty challenging with snow and ice on it. I did it unroped last March (a dry year), and it required all the skill I could muster.

I would go with a guide. You will learn a lot, you will be safe, and your chances of making the summit will be much greater.

Thanks all for the replies. It's great having a forum like this to hear from those with experience. My buddy briefly looked at how much it would be to get the assistance of a guide, based off some of the recommendations here. The cost would be more than we could afford. If having a guide would be the only safe way to do this, then we'd have to consider a different route or a trip elsewhere. I watched some videos posted here by some of you. Looks sporty for sure and I wouldn't be comfortable going down without rope, and even then, it would take good weather conditions before I would want to attempt it. In the end, neither one of us want to set ourselves up for failure or worse. With this being said, a few more questions:
1. If we carried rope, are there sufficient places to anchor up the final 400'? I'm sure it depends on the amount of snow fall recently, but do most people use ice anchors? From some pictures I've seen, looks like relying on self arrest (vs rope) would be difficult to do due to the steepness.
2. Would the main trail be a "safer” alternative? I know it's long and we'd probably be breaking trail the whole way, but if there's anything we have on our side for this trip, it's a lot of time and we're training pretty hard for it. If the biggest challenge along the main trail is the difficulty of trail breaking, I'd prefer to tackle that vs potentially technical routing.
3. Are conditions often favorable for avalanches on the main trail during January?

Thanks again!

Rob

To echo the sound comments here, this mountain in the winter could be just as tough as Rainier, without the crevasse/serac risk. So, be prepared for full on winter conditions and plan on at least 3-4 days on the mountain and watch the weather. You could also be hiking in virually no snow, so it will all depend on how much white stuff is on the ground.

You'd be lucky to get within a day's hike up iceberg lake since the road might be closed miles before the Portal.
Depending on where the road is closed you might only make it to the trailhead on day one. Getting water could also
be tough if there is a lot of new snow. You'll likely be melting snow.

As far as routefinding, I've been up the main trail in trackless, new snow in April/May and the trail was impossible to see in some places and I've climbed Whitney three times already. If you've never been up there it might be a tough day. Granted, I had no GPS, so perhaps that would help you assuming it had reception and batteries were still good. Don't rely on a smartphone GPS.

On the MR route, I assume in fairly powdery unconsolidated snow, the upper route would be challenging and better left
to early Spring/late winter conditions when the snow consolidates and hardens up to climb on.

As far as returning down the main route, could be fine if there isn't much snow. If there is, it might be easier to descend the chute to the west of the switchbacks, but be cognizant of avy risk depending on the conditions.

Look at the link below for my climb this past Spring which shows some shots of the chute - not a place to be if all iced up or if new snow has fallen creating
ripe avalanche terrain:

http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=11767&parmuser=nyker&cpgm=tripuser

Good luck!

1: When we rapped from the top, we did 3 double rope raps, mostly tied and back tied to boulders with webbing. Going up, you may or may not have a hard time with finding places to put Pro because of snow conditions, which as people have said can be variable
2: I have no opinion on this.
3: This is EXTREMELY subjective, it can depend on what happens this month, or any and all subsequent storms. You will have to check the avi forecasts just before you go, and continuously evaluate as you move up. Avi rescue skills and equipment are also a necessity, on either trail.

raflymtsu...

I have absolutely no expertise when it comes to climbing or even stepping foot on the MR but I will tell you if I were even slightly inclined to tackle using rope and climbing technically I would definitely seek out the wisdom and guidance of not only the people on the Whitney Zone but also ...as Steve C recommended... the knowledge and guidance Kurt Wedburg can give you. A phone call to Kurt's company SMI located in Bishop will not cost you anything...you can at least inquire about how much he charges and then figure out if his expertise is in your budget...your life is worth at least a phone call plus you might save the lives of SAR that may have to come to your rescue. Check out the thread in the CHAT ROOM with the name: ALL THE BEST K-DUB the little green face is me...I am green when it comes to the MR