Mt Whitney Zone Forums General Discussion Mt Whitney in Winter Conditions: a warning

Yes, even though it is half-way through the month of May (Spring is it?) the conditions on Mt Whitney are still very much like winter. A climb/hike of Whitney just now is a very serious undertaking. Here is a quote from an article by Bob Rockwell, former SAR team member, and perhaps one the most experienced Mt Whitney climbers:

" cannot say it more clearly than this: The MR in winter is a prime example of something that only experienced mountaineers, who are skilled in technical winter mountaineering, should undertake. You need both the background to know what to do and how to do it, and the breadth and depth of experience with ice ax, crampons, and snow and ice rope work, to be able to do it safely. You must have practiced self-arrests repetitively, and you need to have the maturity, wisdom, and foresight to back off or change your plan if the conditions or weather dictate. Most often the situation is not this severe, but you always need to be ready for it. Climbing the MR in summer will not prepare you, nor will winter hiking with the occasional use of crampons and ice ax under benign conditions. "

If you are reading this, and are contemplating climbing Whitney in current conditions, you need to ask yourself if you really understand how serious this is, and if you take seriously the warnings of Mr. Rockwell and countless others. If you chose to ignore the sound advice of experts and decide to proceed with your climb, regardless of being inexperienced, then you might just be proving a point: Darwin was right.

Good reminder, Bob.

Here is Bob Rockwell's post:   Spring Conditions on the Main Whitney Trail

      Also:   So, you want to climb the Mountaineer's Route in winter

On this topic, around Whitney, at what elevation is the snow level (shaded vs. exposed areas)? Thanks so much in advance

Thanks for posting this, Steve. I wonder how many posters have actually read it... The local INF rangers are writing:

"Winter trail conditions: Significant snow and ice at all elevations. Ice axes, crampons and skis or snowshoes may be necessary for a safe and successful trip. If storms occur, they may include wind, heavy snowfall and arctic temperatures. Obtain a current weather forecast: http:www.weather.gov Avalanche Advisory"

At the present time trails above 9,000 feet have snow cover, which varies depending on whether they are North or South facing. A few of South facing slopes at around 9,000 are snow-free. Of course, someone is going to ask the usual stupid questions: "Which part of the Whitney trail is snow-free?" or "Which parts of the trail are in the shade?" Sorry (actually I'm not), but we keep seeing a level of plain old stupidity from people who either can't/won't read or make a simple telephone call to local ranger stations to get the latest information.

Bob, my feeling is that fewer than 10% of Whitney hikers even visit sites like this. So really low numbers actually reading what might help.


This might help BFR's request:

On Facebook, the guys with a Mt. Whitney Portal Campground handle on Facebook have posted some pictures and video they took this week from Onion Valley, at 9200' elevation.

Facebook seems to be really obnoxious about allowing anyone to view public content without signing up, so you might not be able to see this video: Onion Valley video.   The video shows lots of snow around, but bare ground melting out in places.