Mt Whitney Zone Forums Trip Reports New Army Pass 5-11-13

Desiree, Frank and I went to do Langley but when we got to the top of New Army and saw Langley it had more snow then we thought it would.. Des and I walked down to Army Pass to see what it looked like and it was full of snow, I walked maybe 20ft on the pass and it was a NO way. We walked over to Cirque Pk snow was deep on that side walked on the lower side and kept going on the side until we met Tracie, Talus, Carole and Jim heading for Cirque.

It was a great day hiking with friends beautiful area up there.. Nice to see everyone at the portal.. Good to see you again Richard..

Laura nice to see you again and it will be nice to see your pictures

Pictures here New Army

mark

Thanks for the report and pictures, Mark.

Good for you backing away from (Old) Army Pass.

Somehow we managed to never see anyone up on the passes themselves, but it was great to catch up at the Portal! Shootin' the breeze (and the ginormous mozzies!!) on Saturday afternoon was really special.

Bob Huey and I had planned originally to cross the Crest and head for Soldier Lake, but weather on Friday and a few other issues pushed us to camp at one of the lakes below Army Pass. Reaching there by 1pm, we opted to recon (Old) Army Pass and determine its feasibility for an approach to Langley.

Bear with the photos , folks. The light shifting around with the clouds made for a photogs paradise up there...









(Old) Army Pass:



We opted for the chute in the middle of the photo. Right side had a rim-to-rim cornice hanging over it. Chute starts at about 35 deg, increasing to 45 at the narrows and to the top.







It started to snow when we hit the top, just a squall, but breathtaking...



We headed over to the old trail to see if we could pick our way back down, but that was a no-go (at least for us) without pickets/ropes/etc. I tried to make sure this wasn't tilted for emphasis at all:



So, we opted to loop back to camp via NAP. There was about a 40-50ft drop down from the edge that wasn't corniced, soft/wet new snow over a firm base that was most safely done with crampons and axe. Not exactly a nice landing if the snow gave way.








The dry conditions may lull you into a sense of not needing what someone called their "hard-core gear", ie: axe/crampons/knowledge of how to use both. Just like last year, folks: those who equate "low" snow year to "NO" snow year will another thing coming. We ran into multiple parties on their way in who voiced intentions of ascending Army Pass and descending NAP on their way to Langley. To put it bluntly: spring conditions DO exist throughout the higher elevations and crampons/axe are not "hard-core" gear. Just stop and think for one moment before you get yourself into a situation from which you cannot back off.

Heading out early Saturday allowed for more gorgeous light, and at least one critter who had no fear:







Happy belated Mother's Day to all!!

-L

Great Report and Pics So.BayMark and Moose tracks !! The Upper Cliff switch backs on Old army Pass and Shepard s Pass can be Extremely Dangerous with the Snow and Ice Chutes Covering the the trail In late fall, early winter and in the Spring. We in SAR have been always been amazed that we have not Had More Falls/ injuries and rescues over the Years due to the Way the Snow has always Made Steep Snow and Ice Chutes there. These two Pass in particular ( other than Mt. Whitney of Course) require Level headed Mountaineering Skills and Ice Gear.. aka .. Crampons and Ice axe minimum with snow/ice coverage. When I have to go over them ( in those Conditions)and Back Down I Have Always Wished that I had a Roped Belay and Partner with Snow Pickets or Stakes.I get Puckered up just thinking about the Sight Looking over the Edge with a Full heavy Pack on my shoulders solo. You guys were smart to go Back down NAP instead of Back down the Center or Right/ north side chute of OAP... Looking down that area and trying to figure a way back down has Always given me the Willies !!! And I have gone back south and over to NAP to Come Down Home Alive several times in the last 40 years !! Shepherds is Very Tough as well and maybe worse right now with a Cornice in Place and the Switchbacks at the top are buried with Very steep Ice/ snow Cutes.The Rocks at the Bottom of OAP and Shepherds are A Real Possibility of Death roe for the slipped/fallen Individual. Tech. Gear and Mind sets are required to get over it. We Stash the ropes and gear at the Top and do the Climb on Mount Keith / Tyndall or what ever. Make sure to come back to the Pass with enough energy and BRAINS to get Back down the Steep Part at the Top. Both passs are NO place for the Amutuer or Lite Hearted Back Country Travaler . Again you Two and your Veteran Band Did a great Job Leading the Charge into the High Sierras for Us in 2013 !!!! God Bless . Sierra Angler

Thanks, Sierra Angler. The middle chute on AP had great snow, but I would hate to think of anyone charging up (or down) it without proper gear and know-how.

Hi all - new to the forum. I'm trying to get some altitude exposure before hiking Kilimanjaro in July. Was hoping to do Langley via NAP on June 8th but we're not mountaineers so we don't have axes or crampons. Did Tallac in Tahoe last weekend, which was snowy but doable. The conditions above look more intense than I expected. Should we be attempting to hike Langley just a month later? Thanks, Xander.

I went down NAP on Sunday (May 26). The only snow was on the last switchback. People were going up using just boots and poles. I used micro spikes to go down. I can't speak for the conditions to get up the last 500 feet or so of Langley but I did see people headed that way.

Very helpful, thank you!