Mt Whitney Zone Forums General Discussion Equipment for belay on Willamson chimney?

Nearly everyone climbs Williamson by the West Face route. It is the only class 3 route in Secor that mentions a chimney. KaraKyrgyz specifically asked about the chimney at the top of this route. Can there be any doubt that KaraKyrgyz plans to climb the West Face?


I’ve been up that route six times, including once in a snowstorm in February. I never used a rope. I also never noticed your name in the register (or any other register in the Sierra, for that matter). It’s a tenth of a mile over huge talus blocks from the top of the chimney to the Williamson summit. Do you really think that KaraKyrgyz is stupid enough to lug four ropes up Williamson so he could tie them all together and belay someone up a short class 3 chimney from over a tenth of a mile away? (Imagine the time wasted, the rope drag, the rope stretch if someone fell, and the difficulty communicating!)


Newbies say “repel”. Climbers use the word “rappel”. Two very different words.

Bob, many of your posts appear to be intended to make other people look stupid and/or impress us with your vast knowledge and experience with SAR. How often do you offer truly useful information in response to a question, rather than lecture about how we all need more experience and gear before we dare leave the safety of the parking lot?



If I remember right, there are plenty of blocks at the top of the chimney that you could use. I would bring a long sling. You might bring a couple of nuts just in case. You definitely don’t want to lug a full rack that far when you won’t need it.

You are belaying people up and back down. You aren’t protecting a lead, so any skinny rope should be strong enough. I have 100’ of 7mm or 8mm static line that I use in situations like this.

If the last person down needs to rappel, rather than downclimb un-roped, you need a rappel ring or “throw away” carabineer and a longer rope.

I hope this helps.

Edit: typo