Hi Martin,
I did the mountaineers route last Sunday and Monday. The final 400 had patches of snow which we avoided by going up the first chute on the left side the entire way up. On the gully approach from iceberg lake we went up the on the right side which is a complete snow field. We left around 8:30 and both of us used crampons and had an ice ax. Some people avoided most of the snow by going up on the traditional left side but still had to cross a snow field at the junction of the two sides as the gully narrows. The snow field at that time of the day was icy and steep. Above the final approach to the notch was dry. Hope that helps.
