Joe,

In 2007 we went up the chute in mid-May. The chute was sun drenched, firm but softening. When we got back the first couple hundred feet were in shade and hardening...since the temperature at 13,600' was close to freezing.

We climbed down to where the slope was sunny and glissaded the rest of the way down in virgin soft slush.

You need to be able to recognize what is safe and what is not safe to go up in these conditions.