The Canadian climbers (a long way from home) might have had a limited time frame in which do their climb, regardless of the weather forecast. All went well until one little slip-up...or should we say "slip-down."
You're right - "acceptable risk" is different for everyone. Perhaps there is an additional "challenge" (whatever the hell that means) in the face of approaching danger. Mother Nature is not a respecter of our activity schedules.
Fortunately for the second man, YOSAR was ready to go, as usual.