1: When we rapped from the top, we did 3 double rope raps, mostly tied and back tied to boulders with webbing. Going up, you may or may not have a hard time with finding places to put Pro because of snow conditions, which as people have said can be variable
2: I have no opinion on this.
3: This is EXTREMELY subjective, it can depend on what happens this month, or any and all subsequent storms. You will have to check the avi forecasts just before you go, and continuously evaluate as you move up. Avi rescue skills and equipment are also a necessity, on either trail.


Photos, trip reports and blogs at:
www.anthonyfrabbiele.com and
http://stealthyeti.photoshelter.com