Now that is one deluxe acclimatization and conditioning program. It raises the question, however, of how it would compare with a shorter program that includes sleeping higher. One school of thought is "climb high, sleep low"; another says that you acclimatize primarily at the level you sleep at. I tend to the latter.
In my training, climb-high-sleep-low is not an alpine acclimatization strategy but a himalayan assault survival strategy, based on the idea that the safest way to establish the next higher camp -- often in the death zone -- is to spend as little time there as possible, hence, descending one or even two camps to sleep after establishing the higher camp, except on summit attempt.
Where an alpine assault does not approach the death zone such as Whitney, I tend to think that acclimatization is better accomplished by sleeping higher than CHSL would suggest. In your case that would be first night at Mammoth (or the Portal), second night at Horseshoe Meadow.
Shorter program, but it sure doesn't beat your all-day-hike strategy for variety and light packing!
Last edited by saltydog; 08/09/12 07:17 AM.
